Having lived in Tokyo for 13 years now, I have been to the Sanja Matsuri many times. During one weekend in May, the entire Asakusa district comes alive with procession after procession of various neighbourhood groups carrying mikoshi (portable shrines) throughout the streets. It is also famous for its controversial involvement with yakuza – Japan’s organised crime syndicates – with members of the Takahashi-gumi and Nakamura-kai families disrobing each year to show off their tattoos and carry heavy shrines as a literal and metaphorical show of strength.

The yakuza’s role in the festival is a complex one. On the one hand, their participation is seen by some as a source of community pride and tradition. (Some point to instances where yakuza groups have provided disaster relief, such as after the 2011 earthquake, highlighting a sense of local responsibility.) However, critics argue that their involvement normalises organised crime and raises concerns about potential intimidation or infiltration of local businesses. The debate continues, with the Sanja Matsuri offering a fascinating glimpse into this multifaceted aspect of Japanese society.

~ Short video on Facebook here.

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