A few weeks back, we took advantage of a long weekend and made the short shinkansen trip up to Yamagata to stay in a cabin in the mountains with Mrs IKIMASHO’s parents. They live in neighbouring Miyagi prefecture, and so it was a nice meeting point for all of us – made even better by the fact they drove up, meaning we had access to a car for the whole trip. With little to no public transport in this neck of the (literal) woods, a car really is essential to see this part of Japan.
Arriving in Yamagata after dark, we slowly snaked our way up a series of pitch-black mountain roads covered in mist, before arriving at our cabin at the very top. The whole scene reminded me of the eerie opening sequence of The Shining, as the family made their way to the infamous Overlook Hotel. I can’t imagine what would have happened if we had broken down. There wasn’t another soul for miles and miles.
The break itself was one of the most memorable I have had in Japan, or anywhere for that matter. Not because of anything in particular, but mainly because we were just so grateful to have it. With cobwebs and creaking wood, the cabin wasn’t fancy, but rustic and comfortable. We cooked all our own food, played dominoes, watched the sumo, and read books. I didn’t check my email for four days. It really felt like a break.
It rained at night on the day we arrived, and again on our way back to Tokyo, but in between we were treated to clear skies and the sight of snow on the distant mountains. We passed through ‘towns’ that were nothing more than rice fields, and sampled fresh apple juice unlike anything I have had before. On a day trip out to Yamadera – a scenic temple located in the mountains northeast of Yamagata City – we climbed the 1,000 steps to the top, and I was once again reminded of the deep love I have for this country. More trips should be like this one.
Our shinkansen awaits… 
Let’s go to Tohoku! 
Swapping this view from the train window leaving Tokyo… 
To this from the car window in Yamagata 
I loved this. High up in the mountains, this fire hydrant had its own shelter made out of straw to protect it from snow drifts. A persimmon tree stood beside it. 
Our cute wooden cabin was perched on top of a mountain… 
Where we could enjoy this view from a morning walk… 
But not until after some breakfast On the mountain roads we often wouldn’t encounter another car for miles and miles. 
While even on ground level, things were quiet and quaint. 
The owners of this house had persimmons hanging everywhere to dry. 
A rainbow in the inaka countryside 
Family smiles 
At the bottom of Yamadera, yellow ginko leaves carpeted the ground 
While oranges and reds joined in equal measure 
One small statue. No wait — 
HUNDREDS of small statues! 
Me with a statue of Basho, the most famous poet of the Edo period in Japan.
Basho visited Yamadera in 1689 and composed a haiku that still resonates today:
In the stillness
The cries of cicadas
Penetrate the rocks
Half way up Yamadera 
The autumn colors fighting for life 
High up in the cliffs 
Rishakuji Temple, perched on the top of the mountain 
The view from a modest hut, one where monks used to meditate. The valleys sweep below. 
🍁🧡 
At the end of our hike, I rewarded myself with the biggest bowl of chashu-men I had ever seen. The slabs of ham were about the twice the amount you would get in a Christmas dinner, on top of the noodles and broth. 
Thank you for a great trip
IKIMASHO! 